 HOW THE DESIGN PROCESS COMES TOGETHER
Art images, like those provided by Diane and Lois,
are taken to Bali where I work with Benny's son, Vicky. He scans images
into his computer and with the help of Corel Draw, Photo Shop and other
programs we simulate what the images would look like on a width of fabric,
adjusting the image size, direction, angle and pattern repeat to suit
garment proportions. When we are pleased with the result, the images
go to the "tjap
maker" who, completely by hand, bends, snips and attaches strips
of copper to a steel base accurately duplicating the art image. This
process is extremely labor intensive. Each tjap (pronounced "chop")
takes almost a week to produce. Tjap making these days is mainly performed
by older craftsmen and, like many time-honored crafts, it is in danger
of becoming a "lost art".
The batik process begins with dyeing fabric in 10 meter (approximately
11 yard) lengths the color the image is to be, then hanging it to dry
by the selvedge on tiny nails attached to one of dozens of parallel rafters.
Once dry it is systematically pulled across a vinyl-covered padded table
and tjapped with melted wax to seal in the image color.
The wax dries instantly and the fabric is then ready
for the next step which is either dyeing it darker than the image color
or bleaching the background color and dyeing it lighter than the image…or in sharp
contrast to it. Either way, the fabric must be hung to dry once again.
Oftentimes the background will be a mix of colors and that is achieved
by the workers hand-manipulating the fabric by "scrunching" or "pleating" it
on the dye tables, then applying dyes from squeeze bottles. Where the
dye puddles on the fabric the color becomes more intense. Once again
the fabric is hung to dry.
 When the dye process is complete, the wax is removed in a large vat
of very hot water revealing the image beneath. No chemicals are used.
The wax is skimmed off so it can be used again. Benny's workers are very
careful to remove as much of the wax as they can, leaving a soft fabric.
Any residual waxes easily wash out.
Even though this fabric has been wet and dry several times, pre-washing
is still recommended for a few reasons: some shrinkage will occur, the
selvedges may be a little distorted from the hang-dry process and any
residual dyes or waxes need to be rinsed out of the fabric.
The one piece of automation at Benny's factory is a large drum dryer.
The last step in this long hands-on process involves the workers stitching
each 10 meter (11 yard) piece of fabric end to end into one very long
piece and feeding it through the dryer. This warms the fabric so it can
be easily folded in half and placed on cardboard bolts. The fabric is
now ready to be shipped to my warehouse in Port Angeles, WA. The workers
not only bolt the fabric for me but they also build the cardboard bolts
and print the labels as well.
Benny's factory is capable of producing approximately 6000 meters (6500
yards) of rayon batik fabric a month. Not bad for five men and very limited
automation! |
At first Benny supplied his own image designs for the fabric but soon my
former business partner and I were bringing our own artwork to Bali to
have exclusive fabric made for us. 
AN APPRECIATION FOR THE HANDMADE PROCESS
